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Paddling on the Rideau can be satisfying when you seek a quick getaway into nature while remaining not too far from amenities like flushing toilets and snack stops. On the lakes that form the upper reservoirs of this historic waterway, there are plenty of quiet bays and side lakes where cottages are tucked well into the woods along mostly natural shorelines, which at times feel quite remote. Then you come up to one of the locks to find well kept grounds and very helpful and friendly staff as a welcome contrast.
A couple of years ago, I went with a group of friends to kayak the entire canal route from Kingston to Ottawa. Despite taking more than a week, I felt like we rushed through some of the best parts. It’s great to be able to easily return to these spots, and the possibilities are endless for future weekend trips exploring nooks and crannies at leisure.
Last Saturday I woke up and had a sudden impulse to just get up and go, so in record time I threw the camping gear into the car and strapped the kayak on top. Typical of the first camping trip of the year, I forgot a whole slew of things. Yeah, like a good flashlight and bug juice. Luckily, I comfortably did without, thanks to the easy camping at the lockstation and the dry weather we’ve had all spring that gave mosquitoes few chances to breed. Dragonflies are also out very early, so virtually no blackflies — a miracle in Ontario at this time of year.
I really had no idea where I was going to set up an overnight base camp, so after driving around, I settled on Upper Brewers Locks not too far north of Kingston. I remembered this was where the paddling got interesting two years ago. It took me a bit to decompress from my urban frame of mind and by the time I got things set up and had a meal, most of the day had gone by. I was happy with a three hour paddle around Cranberry Lake, which is studded with small islands — I saw a chart labelling them as “The Cranberries”, so I doubt the fruit actually grows abundantly in the wild here.
Lakes and towering white pines: quintessential Ontario
Camping at the lock stations is ideal for a solo camper. While private campgrounds in the area charge around $27 per site regardless of how many occupants, Parks Canada only charges $4.90 per person. Technically you have to arrive by boat (or bicycle), but parking your car to paddle the area is perfectly fine with them. There are no showers, but the washrooms are super clean with running water. In the odd lockstations, the water may not be potable.
Great Blue Herons are so shy — this one flew off as soon as I took this photo
After about 40kms of paddling on a beautiful day, I packed up the car and headed back to the city completely refreshed. Maybe in a couple of weeks I’ll pick another lock station to explore from.
A speed limit that I would have to paddle really hard to break
Nice spot. Been meaning to give this one a try in full for a while.
Nice. I am jealous. Such great wild life. The nicest thing to me is the combination between a day of kayaking and a good lunch in a great restaurant. The best of all worlds .
It’s an easy halfday or so from Jones falls up to Newboro Lock….well worth the paddle…much wildlife and scenery (thru very pretty Chaffeys locks) with a nice finish for icecream at Newboro.
Alternatively the next lake system West of Cranberry lake includes Loughborough Lake. Although you could paddle it in a day and a half it has public islands for camping and decent fishing…with shops nearby at Battersea….there’s plenty in the area depending on taste, time and weather eh!
See you on the water.
I did a little paddling on Big Rideau lake down by narrows lock. Nice spot.
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I did this trip myself this summer-It’s amazing how beautiful Cranberry Lake is, but since it’s so shallow there’s hardly any cottages on it! I wonder if there is a way from Cranberry through Dog Lake into Loughborough Lake. Our map isn’t clear about that. The trip from Jones Falls north is very pretty, and once past Chaffeys Lock there are several lakes to see with no locks to portage through.
Milburn Creek connects Loughborough Lake and Dog Lake but I am not sure it is navigable. Loughborough Lake was the original headwaters of the Gananoque River, so the link is definitely there. You just gave me an excuse to go exploring!